peak Khan Tengri

Tour description

Where China borders on Kazakhstan, Kirgizstan and Tadjikistan the Tien-Shan mountains are lying. Khan-Tengri is one of the most beautiful summits of the Tien-Shan mountain country and of the World. Once you take a look at it you will never forget it. Its regular shape and considerable prominence allow you to recognize it from remote points. It rises up to 7010 m above sea level and has a black rock face on the North side, a silver ice slope on the East and a pinkish marble face on the South. There is the easiest access to the summit along the West ridges, where a normal route goes to the top but it is not a very simple one. On some hard plots there are fix-ropes. It takes 4 nights for an average team to reach the top.

At the foot of Khan-Tengri two glaciers — the North and the South Inylchek — glide over a length of about 70 km. Base Camp is situated on the South Inylchek, about two hours to walk from Khan foot, at an altitude of 4000 m. The place is a rock, ice and snow kingdom, and only at the end of July is it possible to find a score of tiny yellow flowers on the southern slopes.

A climate of the area is rigorous enough and very changeable. The usual time to visit the place is from the July 15 until the August 20, because it is the summer time of the most stable weather. The meteorological statistic shows, that the months of September and October are the ones of the most stable weather all over the year, but the temperature is lower. We climbed on the months there with very good climate conditions and an excellent snow state. Besides the time there is no big crowd at Base Camp and on the way. You have to understand an importance to have your mountaineering background, fitness and equipment suitable to rather severe condition of the region.

Base Camp South Inylchek will be active between 1st July and 10th September 2008

Route Description

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward 'scrambling' for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.

There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.

From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.

Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

Basic programme, 21 days

	Day	Program
Day	1	Arrive in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation at hotel
Day	2	Drive Bishkek — Karkara (460 km), accommodation at the Camp
Day	3	Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
Day	4	Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day	5	Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day	6	Camp 1. 4200m.
Day	7	Camp 2. 5300m.
Day	8	Camp 3. 5900m.
Day	9	Descend to BC
Day	10	Day of rest and preparation.
Day	11	Day of rest and preparation.
Day	12	Camp 1.
Day	13	Camp 3.
Day	14	Camp 4. 6400m.
Day	15	Ascend to summit 7010m and descend to Camp 3.
Day	16	Descend to BC
Day	17	Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day	18	Reserve day in case of bad weather
Day	19	Fly by helicopter to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel
Day	20	Day in Bishkek
Day	21	Transfer to Airport

2009 Cost of full package is: 1880 USD/1450 Euros per person.

Full package includes:

• meeting/seeing-off at Airport in Bishkek or Almaty; 
• transfer Airport in Bishkek/Almaty – hotel — Airport in Bishkek/Almaty; 
• transfer Bishkek/Almaty to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back; 
• helicopter flight to BC and back; 
• unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back
• accommodation at hotels in Bishkek/Almaty breakfast included; 
• accommodation at the Karkara camp, full boarding; 
• accommodation and 3 times a day boarding at BC
• free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC 
• consultancy service of local guide; 
• consultancy of doctor; 
• registration with local Rescue Party; 
• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC; 
• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service; 
• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;
• usage of fixed ropes on the route; 
• change of air-flight and railway tickets; 
• frontier zone permit; 
• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed)

The cost does not include:

• The cost of Kyrgyz visa
• International flight
• All optional deviations from the main itinerary
• Beverages and meals not included in main menu
• All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
• The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
• The rent of mountaineering equipment for ascent
• Meals in cities Bishkek/Almaty and by the way to KArkara.
  

Porter & guide services, rent of tents for high camps are available for additional charge:

Guide for the group of 1-3 person – the cost 2100 USD per group

Porters – BC – Camp 1 – 2 USD/per kg

Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 USD/per kg

Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 16 USD/per kg

Rent of tents for high camps – 80 Euro per period of expedition

Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) – 6 euro per one cartridge

International call by satellite telephone – 6 USD/min

List of items, which will be of use:

      1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set

      2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.

      3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots

      4) High-altitude foodstuff